A New Taste in Clarendon: Eventide

AFTER STOMPING UP a nondescript stairway to reach a second-floor dining room, you get the feeling you’re not in Clarendon anymore. Chandeliers sparkle from an astonishingly high ceiling, velvety black curtains sweep oblong windows, and stucco-style tile walls create an upscale atmosphere. Eventide, the latest addition to the continually expanding melange of eateries in the Arlington neighborhood, is clearly dressed to impress.

While the tasteful lower level — already bustling at 8 p.m. on a Friday — makes for a classy, yet cozy happy hour spot with its selection of small plates (from foie gras-stuffed dates to soft pretzels) and libation options, the upstairs menu has more elegant aspirations.

A dish of roasted baby beets ($10) served with pecans and watercress delivers such refreshing and earthy undertones, you’ll wonder whether this is the same veggie you spit into napkins as a kid. Similarly, a chestnut soup may not sound tantalizing, but taking a chance on a hostess’ recommendation yielded a warm, buttery bowlful of goodness, topped with a basil foam ($10).

While the entrees could use a little fine-tuning — the lobster tagliatelle ($27) pasta was a little too salty for our palates — dessert here is a decadent triumph. A citrus panna cotta ($6) and a caramelized banana crepe ($6) led to so many “ooohs” and “aaahs,” it started to get a wee bit embarrassing.
» Eventide, 3165 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; 703-276-3165. (Clarendon)

Photo by James M. Thresher for The Washington Post