Weiner's Circle: Unique, Gourmet Hot Dogs

For a food that’s the all-star of the American summer picnic, the hot dog often seems in need of an extreme makeover. Sure, dousing franks in ketchup, mustard and relish might be as patriotic as cheering for the Nationals. But there’s no reason to limit what you put on a dog to the old red, yellow and green standbys.

“The great thing about hot dogs? You can do so much with them,” says Red Apron Butchery‘s Nathan Anda, who hearts Chicago-style dogs. To create a Windy City wiener, Anda insists on poppy-seed buns (preferably steamed) dressed with a salad bar’s worth of veggies (pickles, peppers, tomatoes, onions).

“Hot dogs are crowd-pleasers for both kids and adults,” says Katie Lee, author of “The Comfort Table” ($25, Simon Spotlight). “They’re perfect for groups. Everyone can customize their dog.” Lee sets up a bar full of different toppings, so each person can pick different combos, from simple mustard to a smorgasbord of sliced meats and cheeses.

So, whether you prep a Brit curry relish for a veggie bratwurst, saute onions for a sausage, or make your own mustard for a classic Oscar Mayer you-know-what, here are some ways to wag your dog.

BREED OF DOG: CHICAGO DOG
» What’s on it: Nathan Anda of Red Apron Butchery prefers his wieners, “dragged through the yard, which means topped with sport peppers, a pickle slice, tomato and real yellow mustard — the kind that stains your face.”

» Serve it with: Anda’s beer mustard has a subtle heat that goes well with the franks or french fries. This dog needs a steamed bun.

Ingredients:
» 1 1/2 cups Murphy’s Irish Stout (can sub any dark beer)
» 6 eggs
» 1 1/2 cups dry mustard powder
» 2 tsp salt
» 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
» 1/2 cup brown sugar
» 1/2 cup apple cider vinegar

Whisk all ingredients together in a bowl and place over a double boiler over medium heat. Cook and whisk the mixture until it has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Chill before serving.

Recipe courtesy Nathan Anda

BREED OF DOG: CHILI DOG WITH BUTTERMILK COLESLAW
» What’s on it: Top a dog with homemade chili and special coleslaw dreamed up by cookbook author Katie Lee. “The spicy flavors of the chili are mellowed by the coleslaw, and a little mayo never hurts anything,” she says.

» Serve it with: Baked beans and an ice-cold brewski.

Ingredients:

Chili:
» 2 lbs. lean ground beef
» 1 onion, peeled and grated
» 1 12-ounce can tomato paste
» 1 16-ounce can tomato sauce
» 2 cups water
» 2 tablespoons sugar
» 2 tablespoons chili powder
» 1 teaspoon garlic salt
» 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
» 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
» 2 bay leaves
» 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Coleslaw:
» 1/2 cup mayonnaise
» 2 tablespoons light brown sugar
» 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
» 2 tablespoons buttermilk
» 1 teaspoon kosher salt
» 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
» 1 head green cabbage, finely shredded
» 2 large carrots, grated

For chili:
This recipe makes a lot of chili. Whatever you don’t use for the dogs simple freeze and use at your next barbecue or even toss it with some pasta for a simple weeknight dinner.

Use any kind of hot dogs and buns you like. Whether they are grilled, boiled or baked this chili kicks up even the best hot dogs.

In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, combine the beef (do not brown first), grated onion, tomato paste, tomato sauce, water, sugar, chili powder, garlic salt, salt, and pepper.

Mix until combined.

Add bay leaves.

Cover and simmer over medium-low heat for approximately 2 hours.

Stir in white vinegar and simmer another 30 minutes.

For coleslaw:
Whisk together the mayonnaise, mustard, brown sugar, vinegar, buttermilk, celery salt, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Add the cabbages and carrots and toss to combine.

Cover and chill until serving time.

Top a hot dog with a liberal amount of chili and coleslaw.

Recipe courtesy Katie Lee

BREED OF DOG: EGG SALAD WITH BACON DOG
» What’s on it: “This is like breakfast on a hot dog,” say creator Bobby Varua of the Madhatter (321 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-833-1495), who loved the idea of layering egg salad and bacon on a wiener.

» Serve it with: Salty potato chips and a malty beer.

Ingredients:
» 4 slices of Applewood smoked bacon
» 3 hard-boiled eggs
» 1/2 cup mayo
» 1 tbsp red onion, minced
» 4 tbsp celery, minced
» 2 tbsp yellow mustard
» 2 tbsp chives, chopped
» 1/2 tsp paprika

Roast the bacon in the oven on a baking sheet at 400 F until crisped (about 12 minutes).

Crumble the eggs in large chunks, then mix in the rest of the ingredients.

Cut slices of bacon into bits or chunks (about two slices per hot dog), then layer dogs with about 1/4 cup of egg salad and bacon pieces.

Recipe courtesy Bobby Varua

BREED OF DOG: PICCALILLI DOG
» What’s on it: Wes Morton of Againn (1099 New York Ave. NW; 202-639-9830) recommends topping a plain dog with piccalilli, what he calls a “British version of relish that goes great with sausage.”

» Serve it with: A British ale and chips (or, as we call them, fries) to help cut the spiciness of the curried relish.

Ingredients:
» 2 tbsp salt
» 1 cauliflower, cut into small florets
» 1 cucumber, peeled, deseeded and cut into half moons
» 1 zucchini, peeled and cut into half moons
» 1 spanish onion, quartered and sliced
» 5 ounces sugar
» 2 ounces Coleman’s dry mustard
» 1 tbsp ground tumeric
» 1 tbsp crushed red chili flakes
» 2 tbsp madras curry powder
» 1 gallon cider vinegar
» 1 gallon water
» 10 bay leaves

Sprinkle the salt over all vegetables and allow to stand for one hour.

When ready, wash the vegetables well in cold water to remove excess salt and drain in a colander.

Meanwhile, combine the sugar, mustard, turmeric, curry, chili, cider vinegar and water in a sauce pot and bring to a boil.

Lower heat and simmer for 2-3 minutes.

Separate the vegetables into 4 bowls or containers (preferably metal or thick glass) and pour the vinegar liquid over each and seal tightly with a lid or foil.

Allow to sit at room temperature until completely cooled.

Transfer to sterilized jars with tight fitting lids and keep in a cool, dark place for up to 3 months.

Top dog with piccalilli.

Recipe courtesy Wes Morton of Againn

BREED OF DOG: PAELLA DOG
» What’s on it: Josh Saltzman expects to debut the PORC mobile, a gourmet food truck serving sausages and pork barbecue. Among his potential offerings: a hot dog piled with saffron sauce and Spain’s fave rice dish, paella.

» Serve it with: A pitcher of sangria.

Ingredients:

Sofrito Sauce:
» 3-4 cloves garlic, minced
» 1 small red onion, diced
» 2 medium tomatoes, diced
» 1 teaspoon fine smoked Spanish paprika
» 1/2 red bell peppers, diced
» Salt and pepper to taste

Saffron Rouille:
» 1 pinch saffron threads
» 1/4 cup vegetable oil, then as needed
» 1 small egg yolk
» 1 clove garlic, finely minced
» 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

Sauteed Shrimp and Puffed Rice:
» 1/4 cup olive oil, 1 tablespoon olive oil
» 1 cup precooked and cooled white rice
» 1/4 lb. diced small shrimp or other favorite seafood (calamari works well)
» Salt and pepper as needed

For Sofrito Sauce:
Over medium-high heat cook the garlic and onions until the onions are translucent (about four minutes). Add the diced tomatoes and paprika until the mixture almost has a paste or jam-like consistency. Add the bell peppers and season with salt and pepper to taste.

For Saffron Rouille:
Heat the saffron threads in 1/4 cup of oil over low heat or by any other method such as pulverizing the threads (harder to do). If heated in oil, the oil must be cooled down before proceeding.

Crack the egg yolk in a non-reactive bowl, then add the garlic and lemon
juice.

In a slow, continuous drizzle, add the oil with saffron vigorously stirring the whole time. Thin with additional oil as needed.

For Sauteed Shrimp and Puffed Rice:
Heat 1/4 cup olive oil in a large pan until almost smoking and add the rice. Cook, stirring, until the rice has gently puffed and browned, but before it gets crunchy (at least three minutes).

Spoon out the rice onto paper towel to absorb extra oil. Then add the shrimp to the
hot, oiled pan and heat until cooked through (under five minutes).

Salt and pepper both to taste. Just remember, you’re putting this on a flavorful sausage already, so don’t aggressively season.

Assembly:

Grill (always better) or saute the chorizo until cooked through. Place it in the bun and top with a couple of spoonfuls of the sofrito.

Then add a spoonful each of the shrimp and puffed rice.

Top it all off with a drizzle of saffron rouille. If that’s not enough, a very small amount of chopped Italian parsley on top gives a nice color contrast.

Enjoy this flavorful paella in a bun immediately.

Recipes courtesy Josh Saltzman, PORC mobile

TRYING ON THE DOGS
Skip the supermarket links and pick up these flavor-packed wieners:

» Red Apron Butchery:
Nathan Anda packs these local wieners with natural spices and flavors, so they hardly need toppings. For variety, the mortadella dog and Italian Stallion pack robust flavor. Planet Wine Shop. 2004 Mt. Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-549-3444.

» Canales’ Quality Meats:
Fittingly, you can find old-school franks from this old-school butcher counter inside Eastern Market. Pick up some thick bacon and wrap the dogs for extra flavor. 225 Seventh St. SE; 202-547-0542.

» Wagshal’s
This Spring Valley butcher shop makes its own sausages several days a week. The butchers make a small number of off-menu hot dogs, but the frankfurter and andouille sausages are great with sauteed onions. 4855 Massachusetts Ave. NW; 202-363-0777.

» Simply Sausage
Hot dogs and sausages are certainly different, but both taste great in buns with toppings. This local company makes seasonal varieties — including South African boerewors and chicken with green chiles — ideal for summer grilling. (Online at Simply-sausage.com and at local farmers markets, including Reston’s.)

» German Gourmet
You can assemble a spread worthy of a German beer hall at this Falls Church grocery store. The deli case is packed with links, including long wieners, frankfurters and several types of bratwurst. 5838 Columbia Pike, Falls Church; 703-379-8080.

Written by Express contributor Erin Hartigan
Photos by Marge Ely/Express; Food Styling by Lisa Cherkasky; Express Photo Illustration