Garden of Eating: P. Allen Smith, 'P. Allen's Smith's Seasonal Recipes From the Garden'
On the Weather Channel, the “Today” show and his own PBS program, “P. Allen Smith’s Garden Home,” Southern-boy green thumb P. Allen Smith dispenses advice on everything from planting tomatoes to pruning rosebushes. Now, the weeding and seeding enthusiast shares his recipes for what to cook with all the veggies he’s taught people how to grow in, “P. Allen’s Smith’s Seasonal Recipes From the Garden” ($33, Clarkson-Potter). And, yes, he claims you can dine like a locavore even in the winter.
Americans forgot they could grow their own food for a while. Why is it getting popular again?
I think it’s innate in us. We’re hardwired for survival and caring for ourselves. The act of growing something, even if it’s just some herbs, satisfies us on a very deep level.
One of your points in the book is that you don’t have to have Martha Stewart’s backyard to grow food.
I hope people realize they have more space to grow than they think. There
are so many ways to grow vegetables and herbs in containers. And if you cook with a lot of herbs, do the math — you can buy a handful of plants for $25 and provide all your herbs for a year.
What should beginning gardeners plant to get started?
Well, don’t take on too much, because you’ll get discouraged. It’s better to start small and have a victory rather than tilling the whole back 40. Start with some tomatoes or lettuce.
The book has seasonal recipes for the middle of winter. How does that work?
Well, it is a challenging time of year. Right now, at my farm, we’re eating potatoes we grew, and even as cold as it gets, we grow parsnips, carrots and leeks under frost blankets.
So, what’s the worst thing you can do to fresh vegetables?
Overcook them. Though, in the winter, with a big pan of root vegetables, it’s hard to do that. But things like broccoli and brussels sprouts — be gentle with them. You want them to be tender.
Which winter vegetable gets the worst rap?
I think that the leek does, and it’s time for it to have its moment in the sun. And parsnips don’t get credit. They’re really good roasted.
If I can’t grow my own veggies, what’s the trick to getting good ones at the farmers market or grocery store?
I think the key is having a relationship with someone, whether it’s the grocery manager or the potato guy at the farmers market. It goes back to that whole human component of food.
Recipe File: Brussels Sprouts with Maple Mustard Vinaigrette
2 pounds fresh brussels sprouts
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons maple syrup
1 tablespoon coarse-grained mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 cup olive oil
Cracked black pepper, to taste
Serves 4 to 6
Fill a large bowl with ice and cold water, and set it aside.
Trim the bottoms of the brussels sprouts, discarding the outer leaves.
Cut a 1/4-inch-deep X in the stem end of each sprout (to ensure even cooking).
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the brussels sprouts and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender, stirring occasionally. Be careful not to overcook them!
Plunge the sprouts into the ice water to stop the cooking, and then drain them in a colander.
Whisk the vinegars, maple syrup, mustard, salt, nutmeg, olive oil, and pepper in a medium bowl until thick and smooth. Add the brussels sprouts and toss to coat. Transfer the sprouts to a serving bowl, and serve at room temperature.
Note: The brussels sprouts can be cooked and the vinaigrette prepared in advance. Just reheat the sprouts in boiling water or in the microwave, and then toss them with the vinaigrette.
Recipe courtesy P. Allen Smith
