Extraordinary Eats: Smith Commons Dining Room & Public House Delight of NE

Smith Commons — the latest addition to H Street NE’s substantial lineup of eateries — occupies a former carpet warehouse and is next door to an auto parts store. Amid the haven of hip the Atlas District is becoming, this spot’s not forgetting its working-class roots.

Executive Chef Frederik De Pue hopes the restaurant, which opened Dec. 31, becomes the go-to spot for folks to grab a drink and a bite, and unwind after work. “And on the weekend they could come back with friends,” he says. “That’s the environment we wanted to create.”

The hearty slate of comfort food with a twist is already luring the 9-to-5 crowd. The fish in the fish and chips ($16) is made from flounder rather than the standard cod; a rib eye ($25) is grilled in black pepper sauce.

Smaller plates and appetizers seduce, too: for instance, buttery-soft beef carpaccio topped with capers, oil, Parmesan tuile (a thin crisp) and baby arugula ($12), and a foam-topped mushroom veloute (a blending of vegetable broth and silky wild mushroom cream) soup ($7).

Smith Commons devotes two floors to its public house. Nurse a classic cocktail such as a smooth Manhattan or choose from a list of 10 to 15 specialty drinks that will change monthly. January’s offering is the Felicity Watermelon Smith ($10), a concoction that evokes summer evenings on the porch. For those looking for something better suited to current temperatures, there are 40 craft beers.

Bar food is more than a bowl of sketchy peanuts. Nosh on crab cake sliders ($6) and mango with moulard, or duck, ($11) wok-sauteed mango, sliced duck breast, green curry dressing and frisee, a curly lettuce. For a happy hour (or two), stop by Tuesday through Friday (5-7 p.m.) for $5 drinks and small plates.

» Smith Commons Dining Room & Public House, 1245 H St. NE; 202-396-0038.

Written by Express contributor Stephanie Kanowitz
Photo by Greg Powers