Eating Around: A Tale of Three Chefs

THREE DISTRICT CHEFS have recently inherited head positions in new kitchens — new to them, anyway.

Michael Hartzer, 32, faces the task of stabilizing Viridian in Logan Circle after a series of chefs have come and gone. Thirty-year-old Daniel Bortnick confronts the challenge of carrying on in the wake of John Wabeck at Dupont Circle's Firefly. And just this past week, 23-year-old Ryan Wheeler, at left, took on the title of executive chef at the newly opened Mio after John Paul Damato's unexpected departure.

One of Hartzer's tasks is to carve a culinary identity for Viridian after a slew of chef changes. He says he's "creating my own style of food here," since owner Saied Azali has given him "complete and total creativity" with the menu. He also embraces simplicity, as illustrated in the menu's starters, "Sketches," "Elements" and "Major Works"— riffs on the building's other role as an art gallery. Look for spring and summer plates such as new beet panzanella, exotic mushroom with smoked paprika and manchego, and striped bass with celery puree, prosciutto and crab arabiata.

Like Hartzer, Bortnick has paid his dues in respected D.C. kitchens and learned from established chefs. So, when he took over the kitchen at Firefly, he knew that "gaining the confidence of the neighborhood would take a little while."

The most significant change he has made to the menu is to rework it as a paean to "contemporary American comfort food." His summer menu will include several of his favorites, including softshell crab that's lightly fried, served over arugula, basil, chickpeas and cucumbers, as well as a blueberry cheesecake with vanilla bean sorbet.
Wheeler is at the helm of the newly opened Mio with nods of approval from owner Manuel Iguina and former executive chef John Paul Damato. Wheeler's philosophy is to dazzle diners with unpretentious food they can relate to.

As he adjusts to city life — he's only been in the area for two months — he's planning summer dishes such as fried squash blossoms, a tomato terrine, pizza on the grill and mozzarella made in-house. "I'm glad I've arrived in time to use fruits and vegetables of the summer," he said.

» Viridian, 1515 14th St. NW; 202-234-1400.
» Firefly, 1310 New Hampshire Ave. NW; 202-861-1310.
» Mio, 1110 Vermont Ave. NW; 202-955-0075.