FREE RIDE

Eating Around: Hot Cold Comforts

Photo by Susan Biddle/TWPSINCE THE RISE of ice-cream parlors that replaced corner bars during Prohibition, what had been an expensive and rare dessert was democratized by Americans, as Andrew Smith notes in his "Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink."

Where to find the real deal? Local favorite Gifford's offers homemade flavors such as peppermint candy, cinnamon and Mexican vanilla. Don't be discouraged by the crowds, but if you can't wait for your scoop, Moorenko's in Silver Spring is a sweet alternative. (Try the banana or cookies and cream.)

When she first opened the Dairy Godmother in Del Ray, Liz Davis had to convince customers that custard isn't a super-eggy treat. Custards have high butterfat content, but more egg yolks than ice cream, making it creamier and denser. The Dairy Godmother and Nielsen's Frozen Custard in Vienna offer a selection of these velvety desserts.


Gelato is the densest and creamiest of the three, since little air is incorporated as it's mixed. This European favorite requires more egg yolks than ice cream, but less milk and cream, which means lower butterfat content. A District go-to is Georgetown's Dolcezza, with flavors such as mission fig and strawberry spearmint.

Dainty sorbets — a popular restaurant cool-down usually made with water, lemon juice and fruit — is the perfect indulgence on a sultry day. Add a smidgeon of milk or cream and you have yourself a sherbet. Check the fruit options in the shops listed.

» Gifford's, 555 11th St. NW; 202-347-7750. (Gallery Place-Chinatown)
» Gifford's, 7237 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda; 301-907-3436. (Bethesda)
» Gifford's, 21 Wisconsin Circle, Chevy Chase; 301-652-8965. (Friendship Heights)
» Moorenko's, 8030 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring; 301-588-5656
» The Dairy Godmother, 2310 Mt. Vernon Ave., Alexandria; 703-683-7767.
» Nielsen's Frozen Custard, 144 Church St., Vienna; 703-255-5553.
» Dolcezza, 1560 Wisconsin Ave.; NW; 202-333-4646.

Photo by Susan Biddle/The Washington Post

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COMMENTS (1)
  • Marcelo is a careless owner who both neglects basic cleanliness responsiblities and obsurdly raises the rates up on ICE CREAM. $4.20 for 1 scoop of ice cream? I can go to the giant next door and get a gallon of ice cream for the same price. The floors are incredibly sticky, and the last time i was in the Chevy Chase store I noticed a bunch of roaches in the lobby area. I brought this to the attention of one of the workers i believe her name was Madeline Finely she said that they would take care of it right away. I went back with my daughter a week later and there were both live and dead roaches near the trash can which leads me to believe that there are even more in the back by all of the food products. I highly encourage the health inspector to visit both the chevy chase store, bethesda and finally the E Street store that from what my wife tells me there are rats running around both inside and outside of the store. This is a poor franchise that would be better off closing its doors now and saving themselves from a Lawsuit

    By Bill Campbell , Posted January 3, 2009 12:38 PM
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