Banh Mi Sandwiches: Hard to Find, Worth the Trip

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IN THE WORLD of food semantics, sometimes a sandwich is so toothsome and so perfectly constructed that it takes on the name "sammich." It's a phenomenon that occurs when a food product is so drool-inducing that one is not quite capable of saying its name properly.

Vietnamese Banh mi is a sammich.

Banh mi might not have the same thick, savory, richness of a meatball sub laden with marinara, but its combination of sweet, savory, vinegary and spicy blend together in a mouth-awakening harmony.

Although they're a popular street food in Vietnam, banh mi sandwiches haven't garnered the popularity they deserve in the United States. Instead, they are relegated to Vietnamese delis in ethnic enclaves.

But there, you can find them in droves. They're so integral a part of the Vietnamese street food experience that at Eden Center, the giant Vietnamese shopping hub in Falls Church, there are at least three shops selling these sandwiches.

Banh mi is what happens when fusion goes right. It start with influence from Vietnam's onetime occupiers in the form of a small French baguette spread with mayonnaise touched with a dash of Maggi sauce (a European-created wheat-based soy sauce-like condiment) and stuffed with a protein product of choice, a length of English cucumber, julienned carrots, julienned daikon radish, and sprigs of cilantro.

Real heat seekers can include slivers or slices of jalapeno pepper or some sriracha hot sauce. The protein can range from roast pork to lemongrass beef, chicken, meatballs or even tofu. The most common is the combination, frequently called the #1; it pulls together ham studded with an occasional black peppercorn, Vietnamese pate and slices of pork loaf.

Exploring all the different options at Eden Center, it becomes clear that the ideal banh mi is a study in texture and proportion. The first key is the perfect baguette, with tender, airy innards and a firm and flavorful crust. And instead of a pile of meat like many sandwiches, the banh mi needs only about half an inch of filling.

Another important element that distinguishes the banh mi from your usual sandwich is the vegetables. Slightly pickled with vinegar and sugar, they provide a cool and refreshing crunch.

A good banh mi store will offer to separate the carrots and radish from the rest of your sandwich. This prevents the bread from getting soggy, and if you toast it before eating, the vegetables will still be cool and crisp. The finishing touch of cilantro provides a last aromatic and slightly exotic flavor.

At Eden Center, the best banh mi come from Banh Mi So 1. Its Vietnamese customers flock there for the thin store-baked baguettes, which they buy by the dozen. They serve up the standard fillings in perfect proportion to those thin, crisp baguettes.

If you travel a little further west on Route 50, you will find Banh Mi DC Sandwich, which has the best baguettes. They offer sardine, tuna fish and vegetarian versions in addition to the standards.

For those folks looking for a fix north in Maryland, try Ba Le Vietnamese Deli in Rockville, which is part of a national chain. They include lemongrass chicken, beef or pork among their filling choices. Another option is Hung Phat Grocery Store in Wheaton, which has a tray of roast pork banh mi near the register.

Harkening to their street food roots, not only are these sandwiches delicious, but they are also extremely affordable. Most banh mi range in the $2-$3 range with many shops giving a buy five, get one free deal. So step away from the usual, dense Potbelly, Quizno's or Subway fare and try out some of the delicate, nuanced flavors of Vietnam in a true, tasty treat so good, it's got to be a sammich.

» Banh Mi So 1, 6799 Wilson Blvd., #4, Falls Church; 703-534-1950
» Banh Mi DC, 3103 Graham Road, Unit C, Falls Church 703-205-9300
» Ba Le Vietnamese Deli, 842 Rockville Pike, Unit A, Rockville, 301-294-7808
» Hung Phat, 11315 Fern St., Wheaton, 301-929-0725

Story and photos by Express contributor Jamie R. Liu