Eating Around: Secret Ethnic Snacks

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A LONG LINE of people leads from the doorway to the hostess stand at Tutto Bene Italian restaurant on a sunny Saturday afternoon. There's barely enough space for newcomers to make it in through the doorway, but a peek inside reveals a nearly empty dining room. That's because these folks aren't here for Italian food.

It's all about the saltenas. Every weekend from 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., in-the-know locals wait at the bar to pick up the tastiest saltenas in the area, priced at just $2.50 each. Once the Bolivian owners of Tutto Bene discovered that Arlingtonians have a taste for South American snacks, they began offering a Bolivian menu in Spanish. When word spread in the Hispanic community, the restaurant became known for its take-out saltenas, the Bolivian version of empanadas. Saltenas differ from empanadas in both their pastry exterior — which is slightly sweeter and a bit glossier (due to a thicker egg wash) — and their filling — shredded beef or chicken, diced potatoes, raisins, sweet peas, onions and sliced boiled egg.

Another secret ethnic snack can be found at Song Que, a Vietnamese deli in the Eden Center. The eatery's draws are its wide selection of bubble teas and its Banh mi, Vietnamese subs made with fresh meats, vegetables, herbs and peppers.

At Song Que, patrons order sandwiches from a list of numbered menu items. The menu only goes up to #8, but Song Que regulars know of a secret menu item #9, the grilled tofu sub (pictured above). It's the vegan version of the grilled chicken sub, which is made with shredded chicken soaked in a smoky, sweet brown sauce; pickled julienned carrots, cucumbers and daikon raddish; fresh cilantro; black peppercorns; and crisp, bright green, sliced jalapenos, served up on a French baguette.

Thai Square in South Arlington serves a few traditional Thai dishes absent from the menu. The Kang Som soup is without a doubt one of their best dishes. One spoonful and heat immediately attacks your throat; as the spiciness begins to inflict pain, a complex flavor spreads across your tongue telling your brain, "This is damn good."

Be warned, this soup is not for the weak-hearted: It is spicy as hell. We mean honest-to-God, Bangkok-style, fire-in-a-bowl, don't-try-this-at-home spicy. But it's also really tasty. The broth is sweet, sour and tangy; and, unlike other Thai soups, it doesn't have a coconut base. Shrimp, Chinese cabbage and green beans swim in the broth and absorb its spices.

In the Courthouse area of North Arlington, TNR Cafe also keeps the spicy stuff off its English-language menu. Its separate Chinese menu, however, features TNR's special spicy Schezuan beef, a dish very popular among Chinese patrons. You'll need plenty of rice and water to enjoy this delicious but fiery entree.

If spicy food doesn't appeal to you, ask for another suggestion off the Chinese menu. You'll likely get tastier food that way — and you'll get let in on the secret.

» Tutto Bene, 501 N. Randolph St., Arlington; (703) 522-1005.
» Song Que, 6773 Wilson Blvd., Falls Church; (703) 536-7900.
» Thai Square, 3217 Columbia Pike, Arlington; (703) 685-7040.
» TNR Cafe, 2049 Wilson Blvd., Arlington; (703) 875-0428.

Written by Express contributor Suemedha Sood