Getting Ahead: Workday As Runway

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WHEN EDWARD CAFIERO, 28, gets dressed for work, he often reaches for a suit. "If I put on a suit, that mentally makes me snap into work mode, as opposed to if I'm in more casual clothes," says Cafiero, vice president of The Clinton Group, a D.C.-based political communications company. "There's some degree of taking the time to at least put on nicer clothes that gets me motivated: 'OK, I'm ready to go now, I'm working now.'"

While business casual is appropriate at Cafiero's office, he'd rather be overdressed than underdressed in case an unexpected meeting arises with clients, who can range from Capitol Hill lawmakers to major trade associations. "I have a tendency, if I don't know what I'll be doing during the day, to wear a suit," he says. "Maybe I won't wear a tie, but I'll bring a tie. That way, if I'm meeting with someone more formal, I'm ready for that. And because I'm younger, I tend to dress up more so people take me seriously and so they don't think I'm the intern."

When Rachel Rosenthal, 30, worked on Capitol Hill, she also wore a suit every day. Her wardrobe relaxed a little when she went to work at a D.C. law and lobbying firm, where business casual attire was acceptable. Now, as founder and president of Rosey's, a D.C.-area personal shopping and organization service, she might wear anything from dress slacks and a sweater when first meeting with clients to yoga pants and a hoodie when organizing someone's basement.

But even when she's about to get down and dirty with the detritus of a client's life, she still puts thought into her appearance. "My first impression counts," she says. "It's a professional business, and I want to look as professional as I can. A lot of people say appearance shouldn't count, it should be work performance [that matters]. In the end, life should be like that, but it's not. Appearance does matter with careers."

But figuring out how to dress for success can be difficult these days, with so many companies moving away from one-size-fits-all rules. "Most companies have loosened up on dress codes quite a bit," says Deborah Keary, HR director for the Alexandria-based Society for Human Resource Management. "Society seems to be becoming a lot less formal than it used to be. ... In dress codes 20 years ago, you'd see that women were expected to wear dresses or skirts, with hose and heeled shoes specified. Women would just laugh at such a directive today."

Thank the tech companies that thrived during the heady dot-com days for helping to usher in that more relaxed vibe. Execs in cargo shorts and polo shirts, not power suits, oversaw companies that garnered lots of buzz and huge IPOs.

So, if it worked for them, why can't it work for everyone? Because, it turns out that in the workplace, clothes can help make the man (or woman). "I've been brought in a number of times by companies that feel they've gone too far on the informal side of the scale and are now trying to make the point that people treat each other differently when dressed a little more formally," says Nancy R. Mitchell, owner of D.C.-based The Etiquette Advocate, which provides etiquette and protocol training. "When I ask about dress-down Fridays, some companies are indicating that they're swinging away from that now. People are too laid-back and relaxed when coming to work that way. It's almost like they don't take work as seriously that day."

"With work, it's a lot like dating," says Rachel C. Weingarten, author of "Career and Corporate Cool." "You meet someone, you size them up, and you're either disappointed or impressed. When you're presenting yourself in a businesslike way, people take one look at you and get the impression, 'Wow, he's capable,' as opposed to, 'Wow, he hasn't done laundry since October.'"

The trick is to take a number of factors into account when perusing your closet in the morning. You need to be aware of any fashion no-no's at your office and to think about what you'll be doing that day, with whom you might be meeting, and what you'd like your appearance to say about you.

"I used to wear form-fitting turtlenecks and gray wool Brooks Brothers trousers; I thought that was a classic D.C. look," says Raea Jean Leinster, 38, president of Leaning Star Communications, an Arlington-based marketing company. "Now I wear solid, black, wide-legged trousers with colored high-heel boots. I don't do a very good job of selling myself if I don't look the part of a cutting-edge marketing professional."

At XM Satellite Radio's D.C. headquarters, there isn't an official dress code, and the more than 500 people who work there choose attire based on their roles in the company. Company executives and attorneys might go the suit-and-tie route, but those who work on XM's 170 radio channels tend to put their own spin on the idea of workplace garb.

"When you walk the halls of XM, you see a little bit of everything," says David Butler, XM's senior director of corporate affairs. "Country music disc jockeys in Western wear, rock aficionados in concert tees, sportscasters in [team] jerseys — it's a good reflection of the variety and diversity of XM. There's a very creative vibe here, and I think that's reflected in the way people present themselves."

At Alexandria-based RedPeg Marketing, employee individuality is also encouraged. "We're a creative company, not a dentist or law firm," says President/CEO Brad Nierenberg. "We want some spice, some flair, uniqueness. When we're trying to share with clients our creative ideas, if we're all dressed alike in the same uniform, it's tough to present that [creativity]."

But for those who work somewhere more buttoned-up than XM or RedPeg, but not as buttoned-up as a law or financial services firm, where suits are still the norm, choosing what to wear can be something of a challenge. A vague policy of "business casual" or "professional attire" can be hard to interpret, especially for those more likely to pick up the Economist than Vogue.

That's one reason D.C.-area workers are turning to professional shoppers and fashion consultants for help. Celebs have been using stylists for years to help them with their red carpet looks. (Jennifer Garner gave a shout-out to her stylist, Rachel Zoe, at this year's Oscars.) And now regular working stiffs are getting some assistance with selecting the right suit or shoes for that important presentation or job interview.

"I'm seeing people choose to get dressed up," says local fashion consultant Pamela Burns. "People are finding out the only way to get ahead is to dress for the next job."

"I'm looking for upward mobility within my organization, so impressions are everything," says Linda Diamond, 37, a major accounts sales executive for ADP in Rockville and a client of Burns. "I'm also one of the few females in my position and one of the younger folks in my position, so looking the part is important. If I don't come across as looking professional, I'm not going to get the respect I need and deserve."

Leinster enlisted the services of Tu-Anh — a local designer and consultant on style, beauty and image — to help her polish her work look, and as a result she ditched the turtlenecks and gray pants, and learned how accessories like red boots can add impact to the solid-colored tops and slacks she favors. "I think the No. 1 reason why people don't look as good as they can is they don't have the awareness factor of how to properly assemble themselves," Leinster says. "I don't think people pay attention to it, and the most difficult thing is to admit that you need help."

Younger workers especially tend to need guidance on workplace fashion, as their inexperience can lead them to wear get-ups better suited for a nightclub or college dorm room. "Many places today are a bit too laid-back with dress codes and want their employees to be comfortable so they can be more productive," says Tu-Anh. "[But] if the employer is not specific about it, then it gives the employees more flexibility to experiment and they get confused about what is acceptable and what is not. So, it's best if the employer is clear about it."

While it's important for employees to follow any company rules about dress and to take cues from co-workers and others in their industry, that doesn't mean they need to make like a Stepford wife and completely mimic other peoples' looks. There is still room for individuality.

"I very much want to convey that I have a strong personality and style," says Weingarten, who wears jackets with interesting details or a fabulous pair of earrings to add a personal stamp to her outfits. "It may not be a traditional style, I may not dress like I'm walking into a boardroom, but I do like to look like I'm very successful and very put together."

But there are definitely some things that should never be worn to the office, even if there isn't a strict dress code. Think flip-flops, spandex, short skirts, low-cut tops, sweats and message tees.

"You never want to be the lowest common denominator ... because people treat you differently," says Mitchell. "It's amazing what power your attire and your look have."

"It's never appropriate to wear anything very suggestive to work, unless you're a stripper," says Weingarten. "I think a really good rule of thumb is if you ran into your mom and she gave you a look, you probably should never wear it to the office. If you're leaving your apartment and you glance in the mirror that third time, you know it's time to change."

Written by Express contributor Beth Luberecki
Photos by Marge Ely/Express