D.C.'s Catch of the Day: Local Seafood

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D.C. MAY BE a couple hours from the closest beach, but that doesn't mean area residents are deprived of the glories of the Chesapeake Bay and Atlantic Ocean. Local restaurants new and old find ways to bring the best of the sea at a casual price.

To walk into Crisfield Seafood Restaurant is to get hit by a wave of Americana. Sit at the counter — a large, open square filled with busy servers doubling as chefs. Since 1945, this Silver Spring landmark has honored the mighty crab. Shipped from the Eastern Shore daily, crabs come as (cue Bubba from "Forrest Gump") crab cocktail, crab fingers, crab salad, crab salad sandwich, crab cake, crab stuffed in flounder, and at this time of year, soft-shell crab. Another highlight: clams shucked right behind the counter. Top the fresh bivalves with horseradish and a few dashes of their mysterious "Old Bay sauce."

Back in the District is Tackle Box, the low-key little brother of sustainable fish hero, Hook. Chef Barton Seaver's newest venture touts the same eco-friendly party line. Its bounty arrives from the Atlantic Ocean, reaching up to Maine for their lobsters (a take-home kit includes quahog clams, white water mussels, chorizo sausage and grilled vegetables) and down to North Carolina for trout.

Maine Meals consist of grilled fish, in which the charred flavor enhances every bite, served with a choice of two sides and sauce (basil walnut pesto!). Spiced fries succeed as well as the grilled asparagus, bright and crunchy, not bitter or soggy. You'd almost forget you're eating in Georgetown.

Old Town's fish shack finds inspiration from Ireland. The signature dish at Eamonn's A Dublin Chipper is the classic fish and chips. Taking advantage of the Atlantic and Chesapeake, Eamonn's star fish — cod — is battered in a malt vinegar base. It's unlike the English beer batter, "which can be soggy," explained general manager Clinton Terry.

The same team as the one at Restaurant Eve runs the chipper and has perfected seven sauces for their fried eats. Try Fronch, a grainy Dijon mustard and mayo concoction, and for sauces with a kick, dip your fries in Marie-Rose (ketchup, mayonnaise, Tabasco, lemon juice) or hot chili (serrano chili, cilantro, lime juice, mayonnaise.)

Fish fans, take note — both Tackle Box and Eamonn's are looking to syndicate their endeavors. But don't worry, Crisfield isn't going anywhere.

» Crisfield Seafood Restaurant, 8012 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring; 301-589-1306 (Silver Spring)
» Eamonn’s: A Dublin Chipper, 728 King St., Alexandria; 703-299-8384 (King Street)
» Tackle Box, 3245 M St. NW; 202-337-8269.

Written by Express contributor Stefanie Gans
Photo courtesy Tackle Box