British Invasion: Columbia Heights Welcomes CommonWealth

COLUMBIA HEIGHTS used to conjure up images of Salvadorian restaurants, but now it's home to a vastly different type of eatery: a British-inspired gastropub. Can one neighborhood handle this much change?

CommonWealth, one of the new restaurants to open in this rapidly gentrifying area, is aptly named — it emphasizes the interests of the masses over those of the privileged. Jamie Leeds (of Hank's Oyster Bar) serves up modern spins on pub fare. But you may want to do some Googling before heading over, unless you're already familiar wit: bubble and squeak, welsh rarebit, and frog in a puff — not frog at all; whew! But the menu won't tell you that.

Of course, there's the more familiar fish and chips — three good-sized strips of fried fish with large wedge fries, so creamy that the insides feel like mashed potatoes. The chicken pot pie has a flaky crust and stewy center. The freshness of the food is part of CommonWealth's commitment to local, seasonal and humanely raised ingredients. But can $17 entrees compete in the land of grab-and-go pupuserias?

Mike Danielson, a Columbia Heights resident of four years, enjoyed a special appetizer of butter-like chicken livers, but laments, "It's a trade-off: unique and local food, but expensive. I support [its food philosophy]; I just won't be able to afford it very often."

"Commonwealth is fun because it's an experience — trying new foods and new beers, but it is slightly expensive," explains Allison Barnett, a Columbia Heights local who recently visited England. "But I do think the food is worth the price; it's very thoughtfully made with a gourmet twist on England classics. And I love their beer selection. Young's Chocolate Double Stout is a good dessert!"

Homebrewer and Mount Pleasant dweller Tim Fuchs also lapped up their suds. "They have a unique, well-chosen selection. And they have cask-conditioned [unpasteurized, unfiltered, naturally carbonated] beer. Only a handful of restaurants in the entire city offer that."

Recent U.K. traveler and long-time resident of the area Jerry Herbilla was glad to eat pub food again, "You don't see much English food in the U.S. It's nice to see this kind of food, yet fancier, with a nicer presentation."

With a relaxed vibe, good food and distinct beers, maybe the enchiladas can make room for bangers and mash.

» CommonWealth, 1400 Irving St. NW; 202-265-1400, (Columbia Heights).

Written by Express contributor Stefanie Gans
Photo courtesy Heather Freeman PR