Quite Good, In Fact: Good Stuff Eatery

CAPITOL HILL ISN'T used to the fanfare that accompanied the opening of Good Suff Eatery — a flurry of interest powered by the fame of its creator, Spike Mendelsohn, a recent contender on Bravo TV's "Top Chef."

Lines of eager patrons snaked down the street for weeks after Good Stuff's debut in July. Which is why this Cap Hill resident held off till now on sampling its wares.

It was worth the wait.

Good Stuff is a burger joint, and it has settled into its niche with meaty aplomb. Three lo-fi burgers — regular, cheese and bacon cheese — share the menu with eight action-packed originals, including Uncle D's Chili 'N Cheddar and Colletti's Smokehouse, which includes onion rings among its toppings.

We started safely with the Farmhouse Bacon Cheeseburger and the scrumptious Village Fries, which are topped with rosemary and thyme. The burger was well-seasoned and pleasingly juicy, imbued with a Five Guys-level addictive quality.

We were so hooked, in fact, that we made another visit — research, right? — the next week and sunk our teeth into the Big Stuff Bacon Meltdown, a two-patty, two-napkin delicious heart attack on a plate.

The biggest surprise was the flavored mayo dipping sauces; the mango and Old Bay were best. The biggest disappointment: the dining area's oppressive music.

Next up to explore: the dessert menu. Yum.

» Good Stuff Eatery, 303 Pennsylvania Ave. SE; 202-543-8222. (Capitol South)

Photo by James M. Thresher for The Washington Post