A Grape Holiday: Liquors for a Lovely Turkey Day

BEFORE BARRACKS ROW WAS FLOODED with new bars and restaurants, it housed a tiny store that's survived prohibition, changes in ownership and the 1960s riots to serve its Eastern Market neighbors choice beverages.

Burnie Williams is now the caretaker of Chat's Liquors. He has childhood memories of "dusting bottles, stocking the soda refrigerators and help[ing] bag customer purchases." But after the sudden loss of his father in 1999, Williams and his sister took control of one of the oldest liquor stores in the District, which has been family owned since 1978.

The story of Chat's isn't just about liquor. Williams brings a sense of community to his store, sharing his wide smile and greeting every patron by name. Ask Williams about any boutique wine or trendy bourbon and he'll know where to point you. "It's our duty to … educate our customers and to hopefully offer them products that arouse their curiosity and interest." In that spirit, Chat's offers free tastings every weekend. Williams even hosts local wine dinners; the next is at Laconda on Dec. 10 featuring five courses with pairings.

Here are some of Williams' recommendations for Thanksgiving refreshments in his own words:

» Aperitif: Foss Marai Extra Dry Prosecco NV ($17.99). Its ... creamy texture and seductive bubbles make for a very pleasant sipper. This bubbly will gently prepare your senses for what's to come.

» Dinner: Pinot noir is the top red for turkey. David Noyes Sonoma County Pinot Noir 2006 ($19.99) is a rich but balanced pinot with beautiful aromas of toasted black cherries and cinnamon. An earthy undertone adds complexity, while supple tannins provide a seamless finish. This is one of the best values out of Sonoma; only 1,425 cases were produced.

» Dinner: Mercer Pinot Gris 2006 ($15.99) from Columbia Valley, Wash. I like this wine with its unctuous white fruit and melon flavors, subtle spice and brilliant acidity. With all the flavors that will be on the table, this wine won't distract.

» Dessert: Castello Di Poppiano Vin Santo Della Torre Grande 2001. This wine reminds you of sherry [and is] an Old World style with aromas of dried fruits and toasted nuts. These flavors will marry well with the cinnamon and vanilla in pumpkin pie.

» Nightcap: Belle de Brillet Pear Liqueur ($35.99). Made with exceptional Cognac brandy and real pears, this is the perfect digestive.

Written by Express contributor Stefanie Gans
Photo by Jason Hornick for Express