Not Just a Side Note: A Nutritious Thanksgiving

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IF TURKEYS COULD TALK, the gobblers would surely declare that a Thanksgiving without vegetables is for the birds. They'd get no argument from nutritionists, who are generally appalled by the excessive calories folks consume in the name of gravy-laden family tradition.

But bulk up on the bounty of the earth as the Pilgrims once did — that means lose the marshmallows — and you'll actually be able to get up after dinner, says Isabel Clark of D.C.-based Clark Wellness (Clarkwellness.net).

Her strategy for a healthier holiday meal starts with giving classic sides an "upgrade." "It's not just making the same dish but with low-fat sour cream. It's instead of serving sweet potato casserole, making a mélange of roasted root vegetables," she says.

Clark also likes to encourage new traditions by adding platters to the table. One that's often missing is leafy greens. At Blue Duck Tavern (1201 24th St. NW, 202-419-6755, Blueducktavern.com), chef de cuisine Michael Santoro agrees, which is why his menu for Thursday includes sautéed rainbow chard. "You need a break from all of that richness and fat," he says.

Balance is critical to Diane Morgan, author of "The New Thanksgiving Table" ($24.95, available exclusively at Williams-Sonoma). Turkeys make a fine centerpiece, but she spends even more time thinking about the fixings — a salad topped with persimmons and pomegranates; honey and chipotle glazed sweet potato spears; and shredded and sautéed Brussels sprouts.

"Instead of a green bean bake, I do green beans with lemon butter and bread crumbs. They still have that crunchy topping, but it's lighter," she says. Her book also features a recipe for New England succotash — a blend of corn, zucchini, onion, red bell peppers and lima beans — that can increase the nutritional value of the meal.

And she urges readers not to forget about parsnips, which she calls "woefully underused." (Morgan, however, roasts them and puts them in soup.)

Opting for more produce, particularly from local, seasonal stuff, makes the job of cooking up that huge meal easier, adds Santoro, who relies on regional farms for many of his restaurant's ingredients.

Right now, it's tough to mess up with beets, carrots, turnips and long-necked pumpkins. "You don't have to do a lot to it so it'll taste fresh and delicious," he says.

If you are looking for a new culinary challenge for this year's meal, however, Clark recommends going ethnic to find innovative ways of preparing the standards. Take pumpkin, for instance. Everyone expects to see the gourd in pie form, but not in a Thai-inspired pumpkin coconut soup (find the recipe on Clark's site).

Enzo Febbraro, co-owner and executive chef at D'Acqua (801 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, 202-783-7717, Dacquadc.com), became very familiar with pumpkins — also known as zucca — in his native Italy. "Instead of mac and cheese, I do a mac and zucca," he says.

No one needs to forsake pumpkin pie entirely, of course, but smaller slivers are better for the waistline. And if you're looking for something else to fill up that dessert plate, Santoro suggests a light sorbet — perhaps even pumpkin flavor. Morgan offers up her apple-raisin pie as a healthier option, as long as you don't go for it a la mode.

Or copy Clark and whip up a fruit crisp. "Cook up some apples, cranberries and citrus zest. Bake it with a topping of oats and nuts and maple sugar," she says. "You can pull it out of nowhere."

Whatever you're eating, sane supping comes down to portion size. So, even if every dish is bursting with extra carrots, mushrooms and pears, you don't want to overdo it. At Morgan's place in Portland, Ore., this year, she plans to serve her butternut squash bisque in shot glasses. "It's fun to do, and people don't fill up that way," she says.

They still need to save some room for the turkey, of course.

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