Jeweler, Philanthropist, Horseman: David Yurman

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LONG BEFORE HIS TWISTED CABLES were the hallmark of a privileged wrist, David Yurman was kicking it with bohos such as sculptor Jacques Lipchitz and writer Norman Mailer. Fast-forward 30 years and the successful jeweler remains committed to art and design. While preparing to speak at the Corcoran Gallery of Art ($25, Nov. 18 at 7 p.m.) and open a boutique at Tysons Galleria (2001 International Drive, McLean), Yurman found time to talk.

» EXPRESS: Welcome to the capital. Why is your jewelry so popular here?
» YURMAN: Washington's been good to us. We've been selling here from the first day we made jewelry, when it was just in small art galleries. The taste here, it's almost European. Men and women appreciate Old World design.

» EXPRESS: How would you accessorize President-elect Barack Obama?
» YURMAN: Barack's a tall, slender, attractive man. He's an Ivy Leaguer but not too preppy. His style is "international." I'd like to see him wear a "Belmont Shadow" as a weekend watch. We have a new one coming out in six months. We've just been calling it the "Round" watch. My son, Evan, is still working on it.

» EXPRESS: To celebrate the opening of your store, you've partnered with the Corcoran's ArtReach program. Is it about connecting kids with art?
» YURMAN: It's so necessary. Six years ago, I presented Leonard Slatkin with an award. Besides being a musical talent, he had the initiative to bring music back into public schools. I made a large endowment to the High School of Art and Design in New York. I'll do design critiques there and might start a master class in jewelry, too.

» EXPRESS: We're in an economic slump. How do you stay in step with your customers' needs?
» YURMAN: Here in the workshop, we're all charged up. We have to make a product that's compelling. I'm a shopper, too, and you have to speak to me in color, design, attitude and price. With respect to the berry palette we used this year, we got so lucky. We're not selling as much as before, but we're selling. You don't live and die by gold; you live and die by creativity. You can see where gold got us: Those bankers had no idea why they were getting up at 5 a.m. What's happening is a big correction.

» EXPRESS: Your career took off after a buyer saw a piece you'd made for your wife, Sybil. What have you made for her lately?
» YURMAN: At the end of the day, I make everything for her. I think, "Would she like it as a design editor? Would she like it personally?" She chose two pieces from last year's collection: a necklace of pearls with turquoise and an oval turquoise ring.

» EXPRESS: So, how does the busiest man in the room relax?
» YURMAN: I've got a couple of horses. I ride in Western reining events; it's like dressage, only faster. I compete four or five times a year. I keep my quarter horse, Mr. Scooter, up in Bedford, Conn. He and I enjoy 200 miles of trails together.

» EXPRESS: You'll like it here.
» YURMAN: We've lots of rolling countryside to explore.
I've got a few spare hours. I'll need a Western horse. Can you find me one?

Photo courtesy of David Yurman