Cheers to a Change: Swear in Some Bubbly

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TOASTING THE NEW president with Illinois pinot noir or a Hawaiian microbrew sounds enjoyable. And it seems like every bar in town is pouring Michelletinis or Baracktails. But we prefer to drink to the new first family with the classic celebratory hooch: bubbly.

French champagne and its domestic and continental cousins can also headline in mixed drinks. We chatted with spirits expert Kate Simon about both drinking and blending with sparklers, the subject of her new book, "Tiny Bubbles" ($15, Chronicle).

Did you vote for John McCain? We suggest tripling her recipes.

» EXPRESS: Can you mask cheaper champagne by putting it in a cocktail?
» SIMON: What I usually say is that if you can afford to get good champagne, it'll make your cocktail that much better. But there's no need to use really good stuff. The beauty of mixing sparklers into cocktails is that adding ingredients can dress up a cheap bottle.

» EXPRESS: How do I get the best bottle of bubbly for the fewest bucks?
» SIMON: If you're just wanting to try a few cocktails or toast the inauguration, don't break the bank. I'd suggest Trader Joe's. They have decently priced champagne there as well as Spanish cava for under $10, and Italian proseco for under $12.

» EXPRESS: Any duds out there?
» SIMON: I would caution against trying domestic sparkling wines for under $10. It's harder to find good ones. But one good bet is Gruet Brut from New Mexico. It's about $11.

» EXPRESS: Do I have to finish a whole bottle once I open it?
» SIMON: You have to finish bubbly relatively soon after you open it. There are champagne savers out there, and they work, but, really, your limit in a refrigerator is about two days. It's best to drink it all in one sitting.

» EXPRESS: Does champagne make you more hungover than other alcohols?
» SIMON: No, but I do think that the sweeter the beverage, the worse it can make you feel the next day. And a whole bottle would give anyone a headache.

» EXPRESS: What are your favorite things to mix with bubbly?
» SIMON: I have a new favorite: cinnamon. I put it in simple syrup. It's good with sparkling wines because so many of them have apple and pear notes.

» EXPRESS: What else goes well with it?
» SIMON: Apple or pear brandy, which play off champagne's stone fruit flavors.

» EXPRESS: Which foods go with champagne?
» SIMON: It's classic with chocolate. It's also great with cheeses, especially soft ones. Salty, greasy foods are also terrific.

RECIPE FILE

» Change Comes to Washington
Like President-elect Barack Obama, this cocktail is smart, serious and just a little bit hip-hop.

» 1 1/2 oz. aged rum
» 1 oz. aged Calvados
» 2 dashes bitters
» 2 1/2 oz. chilled champagne extra-dry (or substitute prosecco, sekt or asti)
» Orange twist for garnish

Combine rum, Calvados and bitters in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain into a champagne coupe. Garnish with the orange twist. Top with chilled champagne.

Recipe courtesy Kate Simon
Photo by Sheri Giblin