Formal & Function: Inaugurate a New Tux

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IN CASE YOU'VE JUST awoken from a coma or have no TV or Internet access: The United States inaugurates a new president in D.C. Jan. 20. Parkas and "Obama 44" sweatshirts look swell for the swearing in. But there are also a slew of official balls, vaguely related galas and otherwise fancy functions with invites that read "black tie." If you're a guy, it's a decree that leaves little room for interpretation. Even the stylish president-elect didn't merit much press when it was revealed he was wearing, gasp, a single-button style.

So, instead of fighting the simplicity of a tuxedo, why not embrace it? Don't rent the same baggy, pleated penguin suit you wore to the prom. Buy a classic tux that's tailored with a modern edge, whether it's a slick version by Z Zegna like our cover model or the same Hart Schaffner Marx that Barack Obama will don on the big night.

"The difference between a guy who looks like a waiter and a man who looks as cool as James Bond is entirely in the details," says Kelly Muccio, owner of the Georgetown men's store Lost Boys (1033 31st St. NW; 202-333-0093). "Wear a slim bow tie, lose the cummerbund and finish the look off with understated cuff links. You'll stand out." This month, her shop launches a personal shopping service that includes the "Commander in Chief," with outfitting and tailoring for any inaugural event.

When choosing a suit, fit is one of the most important elements. The only real decision to make here is about the jacket lapel. The notch looks like any other suit jacket, but the shawl collar has a slight old-school vibe, which, in the language of contemporary menswear, means it's extremely modern. "Think Cary Grant or Daniel Craig," says Muccio. "Attitude is key."

That, and a bow tie. The retro knots took a backseat to long styles for a while, but they're back. And learn how to tie the real thing, already! (For how-tos, see Monkeysee.com/play/479-tie-a-tie-bow-tie). Because, really, women appreciate a sharply dressed man almost as much as they do a good bash.

1. Bow tie: "I like a man in a bow tie," says Kelly Muccio of Lost Boys. "There is something sexy about wearing it undone at the end of the night." Want a little personality? Go with a plaid or skull print.
Hart Schaffner Marx tux ($895, Nordstrom), tartan bow tie ($39, J.Press)

2. Cuff links: The only bling you should be flashing is a pair of chic cuff links in gold or silver, depending on the watch you're wearing. For a dash of dapper JFK style, don a white dinner jacket.
Sterling cuff links, ($75, J. Press), jacket ($798, Brooks Brothers)

3. Pocket square: The mantra for tuxedos? Less is more. So, forget the cummerbund and suspenders. The only accent you need is a white handkerchief, neatly folded in your pocket.
Hart Schaffner Marx tux ($895, Nordstrom), handkerchiefs, ($19 for 7, Brooks Brothers)

Written by Express contributor Cory Ohlendorf
Photo by Marge Ely/Express