Face Oddities: Wild Ingredients for Skin and Hair

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WHEN YOU SIGN up for a facial at Takoma Park spa the Still Point (7009 Carroll Ave.; 301-920-0801), your skin might be exfoliated with fruit enzymes or hydrated with honey. "We're incorporating local farmers market foods into treatments," says aesthetician Sara Damelio. "We treat the skin as you would your body. What you put on your face goes into your bloodstream, just like what you eat."

In these days of hormones in beer and salmonella in peanut butter, it makes sense that we should carefully consider the things that go into our face creams and shampoos. Labels now reveal ingredients from the new to the natural to the bizarre, such as algae concentrate or diatomaceous earth.

It seems like using such exotic potions requires a Ph.D. in chemistry. But in the spirit of exploration (and beautification), we tested products that contain some of these "What-the-heck-is-that?" ingredients. We discovered what these odd components were and why you might want to pat some cream with L-malic acid under your eyes or treat your locks with a bit of cassia.

1. CASSIA
» What is it? An herbaceous plant originally native to India used by a variety of cultures as everything from an expectorant to a ringworm treatment
» Where is it? In Pantene's new Pro-V Nature Fusion Collection ($3.99 to $5.99, drugstores and grocery stores).
» Why's it there? To give you a model-worthy mane. "If your hair is full of cracks and crevices, it will have a dull appearance," says Jeni Thomas, senior scientist for Pantene. Cassia protects tresses when wet and helps them absorb conditioners when dry. This equals a shinier, softer crowning glory.
» Our take: We're sold. It made our hair uncommonly smooth and well-behaved.

2. SEAWEED
» What is it? A brown kelp (yep, the stuff we push out of our way when we stroll on the beach) typically found in the Atlantic and Pacific oceans.
» Where is it? In Nude Skincare's Moisture Balance moisturizer ($86, Sephora and Whole Foods)
» Why's it there? To prevent oil slicks from forming on your face. "Laminaria reduces sebum," says Emma Newman, project coordinator for Nude Skincare. "It rebalances the skin and reduces inflammation, which makes the skin healthier and purified."
» Our take: The cream has a nice, light feel and definitely didn't make our face at all greasy.

3. GOJI BERRY
&raqo; What is it? The fruit of an Asian tree that looks like the spawn of a dried cranberry and a raisin.
» Where is it? In the new Vanilla Lavender scent of Lavanila's Healthy Fragrance, Healthy Body Butter, Healthy Lip Butter, Healthy Lip Shine and Healthy Body Wash ($14-$56, Sephora, Nordstrom and Lavanila.com).
» Why's it there? To make skin glow. "It's one of the most nutrient-dense fruits," says Danielle Raynor, president and co-founder of Lavanila. "It helps counteract free radicals that age the skin." It also has anti-inflammatory properties. "I use Lavanila, and my skin is softer," says Lianne Farbes, a Burke, Va., stylist who blogs as the Makeup Girl (Themakeupgirl.net).
» Our take: We love the smell so much that other benefits are just icing on the goji cake.

4. RED TEA
» What is it? A plant known for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits.
» Where is it? In Ole Henriksen's African Red Tea line, which includes a foaming cleanser, face mist, lip salve and eye cream ($15-$65, Celadon Day Spa, 1180 F St. NW; 202-347-3333 or Olehenriksen.com).
» Why's it there? To keep skin looking fresh. "We're one of the few brands to incorporate African red tea," says company founder Ole Henriksen. "It's all about texture. When your skin has a beautiful texture, it glows. And that's one of the key benefits of African red tea."
» Our take: The products' lemony scent alone brought a smile to our face, which increased our somewhat-youthful glow.

5. DIATOMACEOUS EARTH
» What is it? The fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae.
» Where is it? In the new Thymes Essentials Face Polish ($25, Periwinkle, 3815 Livingston St. NW; 202-364-3076 or Thymes.com).
» Why's it there? To remove dead skin cells and stimulate the skin. "It makes a great exfoliant for the face, and it's gentle," says Stacy Brown, fragrance specialist at Thymes. "There are a lot of other exfoliants we could use, but we like it because it has a good story, and it's natural."
» Our take: We're not usually great about exfoliating regularly (sorry, dermis), but we definitely noticed a firmness and smoothness after using. The liquidy scrub also smelled sweet and vaguely dessert-like.

6. GORGONIAN
» What is it? A natural marine extract from a soft coral known to reduce redness and inflammation.
» Where is it? In the Encore Renewal Serum and Precision A Serum ($75-$85, Empoweryourskin.com)
from new skin care line En Pointe Skin Solutions.
» Why's it there? To soothe stressed-out skin. "Gorgonian extract is a natural anti-inflammatory ingredient, and it's very environmentally friendly," says Christine Rodgers, the plastic surgeon who developed the line. "I have a tendency to break out in hives, and it really calms the skin down."
» Our take: Skin less stressed? Maybe. Butter-soft? Absolutely.

» SPA SPECIALS
Local spas have also jumped on the wild-ingredient bandwagon.
Studio Organics (123 Church St. NW, Vienna, Va.; 571-214-8689; Studioorganics.com) boasts pumpkin peels and paprika exfoliators in its facials. It also stocks Sircuit Cosmeceuticals' White Out Eye Cream ($55), which uses L-malic acid, an alpha hydroxy agent derived from fruits. "It lightens, brightens and increases circulation," says Studio Organics owner DiVittorio. We tried it: Our circles didn't disappear, but we did look rested.

At the new Ted Gibson Salon & Hela Spa @ The Collection (5481 Wisconsin Ave., Level 2, Chevy Chase, Md.; 301-951 4445; Tedgibsonsalon.com), burdock, a tropical root, stars in Phyto's Phytocédrat shampoo and hair oil, both of which we sampled during a "Get Down to the Root" treatment ($175). The stuff smelled island-vacation divine, and a cranium massage and oil treatment left our scalp less flaky and tresses smoother.

"When you use an oily scalp product, it often strips the scalp," says Phyto's Christyn Nawrot. "You rob Peter to pay Paul and perpetuate the issue. This helps re-regulate how the body produces sebaceous oil."

Written by Express contributor Beth Luberecki
Photo by Marge Ely/Express