Lash Forward: In Terms of Eyelashes, Big is In

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MOVE OVER, LOUBOUTIN. A supersized set of eyelashes has become the latest must-have accessory. "The demand has totally boomed," says Soul Lee, lash expert for Shu Uemura. A pair of false fringe might not have the same heft as, say, that Proenza Schouler PS1 tote, but don't underestimate how much plumped-up peepers can elevate your whole look. "The cost is manageable, but the effect is huge," says Sephora pro Sheranda Curtis. "Great lashes are one of the quickest ways to look glam." Even girls who prefer minimal makeup should pay attention to their fringe, says CVS' Beauty 360 consultant Jerome Mickelson. "If you like a natural look, a little mascara will still add definition to your eyes and polish to your appearance," he says. But with so many products out there — from novelty mascaras to pricey serums — what's the quickest way to plush peepers? We set our eyes on the best buys.

» BIGGER MATTERS
The main pitfall of mascaras and falsies is that they're only good until your next shower. Which made us obsessed with finding more intensive — and often expensive — ways to achieve perma-flirty fringe, such as lash-growth serums and semi-perm extensions.

We swear that's not as scary as it sounds — usually. The biggest buzz is over prescription serum Latisse (Latisse.com), originally made for glaucoma patients. When they started sprouting thick fringe, it was launched as a lash treatment, too. It's FDA-approved, but side effects may include darkening of irises — a risk not worth taking on light peepers.

Less intense formulas, such as natural stimulant Lashfood ($120; Lashfood.com), claim similar results, but only after weeks of use and without the medical pedigree. Even the most diligent daily application of Lashfood's liquid formula is likely to end in impatience, not instant gratification.

For a lasting lash fix, the fastest method is extensions, a semi-permanent process in which synthetic lashes are individually glued to your own, lasting three to four weeks.

At the Elizabeth Arden Red Door Spa in Chevy Chase (5225 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-362-9890), Isabelle Williams serves as the resident expert for luxe lashes.

Her application is made to feel more like a deluxe spa treatment (which helps explain why it costs as much as one, too, at $350 for an initial session and about $110 for monthly maintenance). As clients lay on a massage table, Williams works for nearly two hours per application, painstakingly bonding on the new lashes. (See Xtremelashes.com for more stylists.)

The result? Thick, dark fringe often more than three times the original length. The change can be tough to adjust to at first.

"Many customers need a little time to get used to it, but once they do, they often want more," Williams says. "It's a way to get major results you'd never match with just mascara."

» MASCARA MANIA
With every beauty brand touting their latest, greatest tube, it's hard to know what works. We tried the newest formulas in search of full fringe.

1. L'Oreal Bare Naturale
($10; drugstores)
Though a little clumpy, this mineral-enriched formula regularly delivers a natural, daytime look.

2. Lorac Special Effects
($22; Beauty.com)
A prep coat of primer is a surefire way to beef up spare lashes. Use a separate brand, or try a built-in model such as this top formula

3. Benefit Badgal Plum
($19; Benefitcosmetics.com)
Benefit's original high-volume favorite goes one step better with a super-subtle plum shade that makes colored eyes pop.

4. Urban Decay Multi-Benefit Skyscraper
($22; Urbandecay.com)
The wand of this new-and-improved tube has super-short stubs, which helps avoid errant eye goop.

5. CoverGirl Exact Eyelights
($7.50; drugstores)
Light-reflecting metallics and four tints for enhancing different eye hues work alone or over your regular mascara.

6. Blinc Mascara
($24; Beauty360, 1350 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-331-1725)
An instant winner for its tubing technology, which coats lashes instead of painting them. Use alone or as a top seal for flakier formulas.

7. Lancome Oscillation
($34; Lancome.com)
Vibrating mascaras aren't all bunk: A buzzy vibration and skinny brush help nicely cover lashes, but it's best for lengthening, not volume.

8. Physician's Formula Organic Wear
($10; drugstores)
An eco-friendly find, free of parabens and icky additives, though it falls short of major plumping.

9. Dior DiorShow
($24; Sephora.com)
The longtime celeb fave lives up to its rabid cult following. An oversized brush delivers massive length, volume and a sweet rose smell.

10. Kiehl's Marvelous Mineral
($16.50, Kiehl's, 3110 M St. NW;
202-333-5101)
The skin savior just unveiled its first mascara, a jojoba oil-fortified formula that lightly punches up lashes.

» FALSIES HOPE
Those red carpet celebs with big, beautiful eyes? Nope, not genetics — it's the trick of false lashes. "Almost every actress wears them," says Shu Uemura's Soul Lee. Faux fringe can be tough to master, but try these tips for an evening look that's decadent, not drag queen-y.

Step One
Choose wisely. A big mistake most lash newbies make is using the wrong style, says Sephora's Sheranda Curtis. It might seem skimpy in the packaging, but "a little false lash goes a long way," she says. Another major gaffe: not trimming the strips to fit the length of your eyelids before applying them.

Step Two
Practice makes perfect. Even before you get out the glue, do a few dry runs to get the hang of placement. When you're ready, dispense a thin line of adhesive along the lashes, not the eye. Be sure to let it sit for 20 to 30 seconds so glue can set before applying.

Step Three
Go slow. Start by fully affixing the lash to the inside corner of the eye before working along the lid to the outer corner, keeping as close to the lash line as possible. Make a mistake? Pull off the lash, reapply the glue and try again — you'll likely botch it more if you make major adjustments once it's on the eyelid.

Step Four
Let glue dry and assess. (Stuck lids together? Us, too. Even Curtis says she's done that from time to time.) Minor flaws — such as a small gap between the lash line and false lash — can be camouflaged with gel eyeliner. Curling all lashes and adding a coat of mascara will help the natural and fake sets mesh.

Step Five
Know when to seek help. Oddly shaped eyes, unsteady hands and other common hitches can make lash application extra-tricky. If you can't master it on your own, head to a beauty store such as MAC, where practiced beauty technicians will apply the brand's lashes for free.

Photos by Marge Ely/Express