No-Dairy Queen: Erin McKenna

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WHEN ANIMAL-product-shunning A-listers such as Moby and Natalie Portman want to dig into dairy-free chocolate cupcakes or no-egg cookies, they often head to New York's BabyCakes bakery. The naughty-tasting yet often nutritious vegan and gluten-free treats by owner Erin McKenna star in a new cookbook, "BabyCakes" ($24, Random House). We chatted with McKenna about how she crafted her baking secrets to help change the way people eat dessert.

» EXPRESS: How did you get your start?
» MCKENNA: I had just found out I had food sensitivities to wheat, dairy and sugar, and I was at a friend's house. Her child had major food allergies. She'd made him a cake that she called a babycake, because it was good for little kids who couldn't eat wheat or eggs. I thought it would be great for somebody to start a bakery dedicated to those goods. After awhile, I realized I should launch it.

» EXPRESS: What are the challenges of baking without gluten?
» MCKENNA: I thought developing recipes would be a breeze, but each recipe was different. Cookies didn't have the same method as scones, so each one was starting from scratch. I had problems with things being gummy and hard. I had a lot of problems with finding the balance to bind each recipe.

» EXPRESS: What do we need to know when baking without gluten, eggs or dairy?
» MCKENNA: Gluten gives elasticity to bread and holds it together, so you need to create that effect. Xanthan gum is in all my gluten-free recipes. It helps the dough mock the consistency. It can be difficult to create your own recipe without eggs. I've tried avocados, pureed dates, anything to add moisture. The challenge is to find a binder that won't leave the goods so heavy that they can't rise (or become too moist).

» EXPRESS: How do you adjust to accommodate for the different flavors of vegan-made ingredients like bean flour?
» MCKENNA: A lot of these flours are different from wheat flour. You can add essences like vanilla or lemon extracts to balance the funky tastes. The tastes are more prevalent in the dough, but, luckily, the different flavors of something like garbanzo bean flour bake away. When they come out of the oven, they should taste normal.

» EXPRESS: What are your issues with store-bought vegan goods?
» MCKENNA: It's hard to find things to eat in stores. If I find something without gluten, dairy or sugar, it is often loaded with preservatives or made with unhealthy ingredients. Plus, when things don't taste good, you might as well eat an apple.

» EXPRESS: What sets your baked goods apart from other vegan products?
» MCKENNA: Everything I use is in there for a reason, from the oils to the flours. Also, I don't use chemical processed sweeteners or sugar alcohol, which can cause gas. I love agave because it's natural and straight from the cactus, so it doesn't affect blood sugar like sugar does.

» EXPRESS: Have you had any baking disasters?
» MCKENNA: I was so confident starting off. I tried baking a cake for a party and I remember the batter tasted so good. I called my friends and announced that I'd be bringing over the first BabyCakes cake. When I took it out of the oven, it was a gelatinous mess: dense, didn't rise, clear and wobbly.

» EXPRESS: Any favorite indulgences?
» MCKENNA: Taking a brownie and topping it with agave-sweetened vegan ice cream from Coconut Bliss, then adding chocolate sauce. I like simple flavor profiles.

» EXPRESS: What can omnivores learn from your recipes?
» MCKENNA: I am very interested in our body's digestion. I studied food combining and vitamins and decided that if I was going to create a bakery, it would be not just what isn't there, but what takes its place. The ingredients are in there with a purpose. Garbanzo flour may give better rise to dough, but it's packed with nutrients. Coconut oil is healthy and high in lauric acid, meaning your body stores it as energy, not fat. Also, you won't find mass-produced hybridized items.

» EXPRESS: Are there products you'd like to see on the market?
» MCKENNA: We need more conscious eating instead of "Eat it. It's fine." Every food, including frozen pizza, can be recreated in a better way so that it doesn't impose on your health. With mindful ingredients, these foods can propel you toward better health. As for food, how awesome would a donut shop be? We have to get the BabyCakes of donut shops out there.

» EXPRESS: What are the bakery's most popular products?
» MCKENNA: I would have to say the cookie sandwiches (filled with frosting) besides the cupcakes, but cupcakes, cookies, and brownies all tie for number one. In the cookbook, the brownies are most popular.

» Recipe File: Follow McKenna's instructions for vegan chocolate chip cookies.

Written by Express contributor Erin Hartigan
Photos courtesy Tara Donne