A New Asian Fusion Eatery: Zentan at Donovan House Hotel

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THOMAS CIRCLE isn't exactly a hub of restaurant activity, surrounded as it is by sleepy hotels and apartment buildings. However, the Donovan House Hotel is hoping to fill that gap with its new Asian fusion eatery, Zentan.

"We wanted to make sure that it wasn't just a celebration restaurant, but it truly was an end-destination restaurant that would work well with both the residents and the businesses," says Stephen Brandman, a partner in the Do Not Disturb Restaurant Group, which manages Zentan.

"It has the kind of menu that's so broad that you might have sushi for lunch on a Tuesday but you might go for lamb chops on a Saturday night with your spouse."

The street-level spot was originally supposed to be filled by star chef Todd English, who caused a stir when he pulled out in April.

"Todd ... decided he was going to pass on it. We were working with him already from the hotel perspective, so we were very involved in the process," says Brandman. "We decided that we could come up with an Asian concept ourselves, so we reached out to [chef] Susur Lee."

Hong Kong-born chef Lee brings with him a modern take on Asian classics. With everything from Maine lobster sushi rolls to hot and sour soup to grilled sirloin, the menu does seem to take on too much. And some dishes do fall short, like the loosely rolled (albeit fresh) sushi and the heavily fried chickpea onion rings with mango chutney.

But, overall, the entrees don't disappoint and include titles to place their inspiration. There's Mongolian lamb chops with chili mint, carrot cardamon and peanut chutneys, Szechuan-style duck with bean djan and lotus pancake and the Hong Kong-inspired steamed whole rockfish with chili-black bean sauce. And the dishes are surprisingly ample, giving diners more bang for their buck and their $20-something entrée.

"There's been a trend towards plates that are very small, and we wanted to make sure the portions were generous," adds Brandman.

That's not expected for a restaurant with such a slick environment, complete with black glossy seating for 110, coffee-colored walls and dim lighting from a hanging shelf of flickering LED candles. The back dining room, with two circular private tables, is even shrouded in slinky, sheer curtains, adding to its sexy appeal.

But Brandman and his partners are hoping that even a sleek new eatery can become a local hangout. As a perk, the restaurant is offering diners access to the hotel's private rooftop pool and bar, Above D.C., for an after-dinner drink, a lounge on the chaises and a view of Thomas Circle and beyond.

» Zentan, 1155 14th St. NW; 202-379-4366.

Written by Express contributor Danielle O'Steen
Photo courtesy Paul Morigi