Make Room for the Macaron: Parisian Macarons

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FRANCOPHILES MIGHT celebrate Bastille Day on July 14 with a glass of bubbly. Michel Giaon marks it by whipping egg whites and grating almonds. The French national holiday is the busiest time of year for the Arlington pastry chef, whose online confectionary, Michel Patisserie (Michelpatisserie.com), sells Parisian macaron cookies for parties in D.C. and elsewhere.

Even those not feting liberty and fraternity this weekend might want to invite the increasingly popular, bite-size pastries to their next dinner soirée or bridal shower. "We're seeing growing interest year-round," Giaon says. The poker chip-size puffs even figured into a recent plot on "Gossip Girl."

To be clear, the Parisian macaron (which rhymes with bonbon, though it's often Americanized into "macaroon") has little in common with the similarly named coconut cluster. Instead, the macaron consists of two flavored meringue rounds — baked from almond flour, egg whites and powdered sugar — sandwiched around a buttercream or ganache filling.

From there, pastry chefs experiment with flavors. Chocolate, pistachio and vanilla are standard; Giaon also hawks coffee, salted caramel and mango. Georgetown's Patisserie Poupon (1645 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-342-3248) comes up with subtle riffs such as lemon or cinnamon. And at Praline (4611 Sangamore Road, Bethesda; 301-229-8180), comfort combos such as peanut butter and jelly and banana-chocolate fly out of the shop. Macarons have become so hot, the bakery even offers a jumbo version the size of a cake.

Legend says that Renaissance royal Catherine de Medici (or her chefs, anyway) brought macarons to France from Italy in the 14th century. Today's sandwich version is credited to famed Parisian pastry shop Ladurée. Tourist itineraries of Paris now often include Ladurée's center city headquarters, where lines frequently form around the block.

In D.C., macaron fans often start as travelers who have nibbled the treats in the City of Light. "We keep a sign outside touting them, and people will run in, wildly excited," says Eric Nelson, co-owner of ACKC (1529C 14th St. NW; 202-387-2626), which stocks Michel Patisserie macarons.

What makes the macaron appealing to foodies is its complex texture: the crunch of meringue, the burst of filling. "A perfect macaron is neither crumbly [nor] chewy. It almost melts in your mouth," says Fabrice Bendano, pastry chef at Alain Ducasse restaurant Adour (923 16th St. NW; 202-509-8000), where every dinner ends with a plate of the petite sweets. He'll be leading macaron-making classes this fall.

Chez you, the cookies seem inherently celebratory, whether they're served with tea or, mais oui, champagne. "It's a dessert that speaks to a refined palate," agrees Nelson of ACKC. "They're delicate, flavorful and also pretty to look at."

» SECRET SOURCES
Better Ways To Bon Appetit
Sure, you could plop a wedge of Brie on a plate and call it a Bastille Day. But we’d suggest trying these tasty French specialties for more ooh-la-la at your summer fêtes.

» Truffle Butter
Crusty baguettes benefit from a tasty spread infused with Gallic 'shrooms ($4.60, the Butcher's Block, 1600 King St., Alexandria; 703-894-5253)

» Créme de Cassis
Add a splash of this sweet black currant liqueur ($20; select liquor stores) to white wine for a kir or champagne for a kir royale.

» Duck Pâté
This hearty, pistachio-studded pâté is flown in from top Berkeley, Calif., restaurant Cafe Rouge ($22/lb., Cowgirl Creamery, 919 F. St.
NW; 202-393-6880).

Photos by Marge Ely/Express