Take Your Mouth South: Finding Healthy Cuisine in Washington's Soul Food Craze

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KNOWN FOR FRIED chicken, waffles and grits, Southern cuisine isn't exactly diet-friendly fare. So, with soul food dominating Washington's newest menus, how are we supposed to keep the numbers on our scales from creeping north?

Blue Ridge (2340 Wisconsin Ave. NW; 202-333-4004) goes heavy on vegetable side dishes (such as sautéed beet greens and braised zucchini) — and purposely skimps on fats by using milk instead of cream where possible, says head chef Barton Seaver. And his farm-to-table philosophy preserves more nutrients in each bite, he adds: "I spend my time buying good ingredients, and then I keep out of the way of them."

It's tougher to navigate the menu at Eatonville (2121 14th St. NW; 202-332-9672; Eatonvillerestaurant.com). "But in some of our sides, where traditionally we'd use fatback or pork, we've refrained," says executive chef Rusty Holman. Opt for his vegan side dishes, including stewed tomatoes with black-eyed peas and braised collard greens.

Dan Simons, a principle with the Vucurevich Simons Advisory Group, which offers consulting for eateries (including Founding Farmers and Agraria), says it's smart business to have healthy items available for diners. But high-fat, high-calorie foods still make customers' mouths water.

That's why chef Art Smith balances a menu at Art & Soul (415 New Jersey Ave. NW; 202-393-7777; Artandsouldc.com) that ranges from indulgent mac and cheese to crispy whole trout with a spring bean salad. "You can't tell people what to eat," Smith says, "but you can give them a choice and leave them to making better choices."

Photo by Jason Hornick for Express