Not the Same Old Fish Story: Two Restaurants Give Seafood a Spicy, New Taste

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SEAFOOD IS A SUMMER STAPLE in heat-stifled D.C., and restaurants are finding zingy new ways to take briny protein beyond grilled and pan-seared fillets.

At BlackSalt Fish Market and Restaurant in Palisades, a Provencal seafood stew combines shrimp, mussels and fresh fish in a savory saffron base.

For dinner, BlackSalt has a rotation of stew specials based on whatever looks best at the market. Once that seafood is added to the other flavors and textures in the stews, it attains an almost meaty essence.

"I think because of the amount of protein in it, it does have that hearty effect," said executive chef Danny Wells. "But seeing that it's almost entirely seafood, it's still kind of light at the same time. It satisfies both things, but it's not overbearing."

Downtown, Tenpenh has plenty of interpretations for fish, but each has a distinctly modern, playful feel epitomized by the soft shell crab banh mi "BLT," a mishmash of Eastern, Western and local ideas that somehow melds into a coherent whole. The new take on the traditional Vietnamese banh mi sandwich has a pungent black garlic remoulade and well-cooked crab that combines tenderness and a bit of crunch.

"That's pretty much deep fried," said executive chef Cliff Wharton. "Normally, I like my softshells pan-seared, but for sandwich purposes, I wanted to do it that way."
Instead of a heavy tempura, Wharton opted for a light flour coating. he said. The bacon, the cucumber and the smoked tofu all accent that softshell."

» BlackSalt Fish Market and Restaurant, 4883 MacArthur Blvd. NW; 202-342-9100.
» Tenpenh, 1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-393-4500, (Archives-Navy Memorial)

Written by Express contributor Rob Margetta
Photo by Kristopher Triplaar for Express