Drink Pink: Cracklin' Roses for Your Next Soiree

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AT LOUDOUN COUNTY'S Bluemont Vineyard, some tasting-room visitors balk when offered a sample of the winery's Donkey Rosé. "People say, 'no thanks, I don't like sweet wines,'" says winemaker/owner Bob Rupy. "But I like to twist arms with this. They see the color and think white zinfandel, but in reality, they're usually pleasantly surprised to learn that this rosé is dry."

Thanks to homegrown vintners like Rupy -- and well-traveled Americans who have gulped the peachy-hued wines in France, Italy and Spain -- there's been a rosé revolution in the U.S. "There's more internationalism in drinking, and more people have tasted the European style," says Seattle-based beverage expert A.J. Rathbun, who even includes a couple of rosé drinks in his new book, "Wine Cocktails" ($13, Harvard Common Press) "We're moving beyond the 1970s, when California vintners were making sweet blush wines."

At city restaurants and on suburban patios, it's now hip to sip pink, particularly in the warmer months. Add the fact that dry rosé is relatively inexpensive and tasty with many foods, and you may have your signature party drink until the first frost.
"Rosé is refreshing on hot evenings," says Tyler Coleman, who blogs about grape issues at Drvino.com. "It has a little more substance and body than a white, which means it's crisp and food-friendly."

Rosé's bracing-yet-fruity appeal stems from how it's made. "There are no pink grapes," says Coleman. "Rosé actually comes from red grapes. Red wines come from crushing grapes and leaving the skins in contact with the juice. If you just leave the juice in contact with the skin for a short time, you get pink wine."

Rosé can come from any red-wine grape or a blend. "The Donkey is made from nine different grapes," says Rupy. "It's our wine stew." Not surprisingly, this method "means rosé is a good crossover wine for people who don't like white wine," says Elli Benchimol, director of wine and spirits at Zola Wine & Kitchen (505 9th St. NW; 202-639-9463) and Potenza (1430 H St. NW; 202-638-4444).

Keeping with Potenza's Italian menu, Benchimol's been selling lots of that country's rosatos at the trattoria's adjacent wine shop. The wines range from ruby-hued and medium-bodied to light and effervescent.

Look for other bottles from Mediterranean countries with rosé traditions -- France (top producers include Tavel and Bandol) and Spain, where rosados tend to come from the Rioja region. New World producers include South Africa and Argentina, which is winning converts with rich, Malbec varieties.

In America, "increased demand is making it more popular to make rosés," says Coleman. The gold, er, pink standard? California's Bonny Doon Vin Gris de Cigare (about $9 a bottle at Whole Foods or Wine.com). And dozens of Virginia's 140-plus vineyards are getting in on the (dry) blush crush, too (see sidebar).

The variety of climates and grapes that go into rosé production means there's no one taste you'll get from a quaff. "You can achieve so many different styles," says Rupy. Watch for elements like cherries and berries, citrus like grapefruit and undertones of spice.

One of the most intoxicating things about rosé? "It's really versatile with food," says Benchimol. "I love it with heavy fishes or roasted meats, and its zippiness tends to calm down spicy foods like salsas and Asian fare. As a rule of thumb, it works with anything you'd serve beer with." Other culinary matches: cheeses, particularly goat ones, and even a slice of pizza, provided it's not too heavy on the tomato sauce.

Because they don't take long to produce (or use a vineyard's best grapes), rosés also tend to be inexpensive. "You'll have a hard time paying more than $20 to $22 a bottle," says Benchimol.

A wine that's delicious, food-loving and cheap? We'll raise our glass to that.

VIRGINIA'S ROSE TRAIL
» Bluemont Vineyard
18755 Foggy Bottom Road, Bluemont, Va.; 540- 554-8439; Bluemontvineyard.com; tastings Fri.-Sun. and holidays 11 a.m.-6 p.m.

In a window-filled structure overlooking a mountain valley (pictured above), this bucolic Loudoun County spot pours medium-bodied Donkey Rosé. After a tasting, order a glass and enjoy stellar views from the deck or balcony. On weekends, there's live music.

» Chrysalis Vineyards
23876 Champe Ford Road, Middleburg, Na.; 540-687-8222; chrysaliswine.com; tastings daily 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

One of Loudoun County's most-established wineries concocts two pinks: full-bodied Mariposa and fruity Sarah's Patio Red. Both are pressed from Norton, a native grape. A picnic area outside the neo-Victorian tasting room boast grills, so BYOB (bratwurst, that is).

» Swedenburg Estate Vineyard
23595 Winery Lane, Middleburg, Va.; 540-687-5219; swedenburgwines.com; tastings Sat.-Sun. and holidays 11 a.m.-5 p.m.

The dry, herby C'est La Vie rosé here tastes as good -- or better -- than some you'll find in France. That's no fluke: the founders of this small winery spent time in Paris with the foreign service. Guitarist Boo Snider performs on Labor Day, Sept. 6.

» Veramar Vineyard
905 Quarry Road, Berryville, Va.; 540-955-5510; veramar.com; tastings daily noon-5 p.m.

Tucked away on a country road not far from the West Virginia line, this picturesque spot crafts Pink Chicken rosé (see Taste Test). Outside the convivial Italian-decor tasting room, a grassy picnic area by a pond invites sipping and sunning.

Photos by Lawrence Luk