Trip on the Korean Side: Korean Restaurants Attract Spice-Craving Diners

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IF YOU'RE SEARCHING for tasty Korean food, the logical place to go would be Koreatown.

For more than a decade, Annandale in Northern Virginia maintained a stronghold on local Seoul food (sorry, we had to go there). But with Korean food gaining popularity, restaurants have appeared throughout other parts of NoVa and D.C. The range in style of these eateries caters to a range of patrons. Whether you grew up with Mom or Dad pickling baechu (napa cabbage) or you're completely new to Korean fare, something is bound to strike your fancy.

Our kimchi trail begins in Annandale at the 24-hour Korean barbecue joint Ye Chon. Whether it's noon or 3 a.m., this place is always full of hungry customers and fantastic fragrances. The kalbi, beef short ribs, is soaked in a sweet, smokey marinade and grilled right on your table. The finger-licking-good beef is lean, making for the perfect texture — you can chew freely without worrying about unnervingly bulbous chunks of fat in your teeth.

Typical Korean restaurants offer an array of banchan, or small side dishes, to accompany entrees, and Ye Chon is no exception. Its diverse selection includes such snacks as red-hot kimchi, pickled daikon radish and mini vegetable pajeon or pancake.

Just east of Annandale proper is a place famous in the Korean community both for its history and its food — the true force behind its staying power. Han Sung Oak was one of NoVa's first Korean restaurants, established by owner Kun Hee Rhee in 1994. Its bulgogi, thinly sliced and sweetly marinated sirloin steak, sizzles on the grill tables along with slivers of garlic and fresh vegetables.

Heading to Northwest, and away from the traditional, Java Green Cafe serves up vegan Korean food. Its flavorful mandu (dumpling) soup is fresh and colorful, with green onions, seaweed, carrots and mushrooms brightening the broth. The menu also features vegan bulgogi and bibimbap.

Traditional bibimbap is a mix of sauteed vegetables and beef topped with a fried egg and served over rice. At Java Green, it's organic veggies over organic rice.

Many would argue that bibimbap is nothing without its protein. For those folks, and any non-vegetarian looking for cheap Korean eats, L Street Vending — better known to locals as "Bulgogi Cart" — is just blocks away. This popular spot for bibimbap and bulgogi deserves praise for one reason in particular: Washington needs street food that isn't hot dog, and more of it at reasonable prices. For just $7, the cart offers spicy beef and chicken dishes with rice and two sides.

Another great lunch spot can be found in Northeast, near the Gallaudet University Metro. K-Young's Deli was opened in 2006 by Korean-born Song Kim.

Slurping down the soup at this divey shack of a restaurant, you may notice Kim chatting with her customers in fluent Spanish. That's because she lived in Paraguay for 25 years. As a result, K-Young's menu includes not only huge bowls of the expected spicy Korean soups, but also dishes such as pollo asado (grilled chicken, Latin-style). Spicy beef and seafood soups are filled with onions, egg, vegetables and red-hot sauces. Soups are just $6 to $7 and come with rice and kimchi.

» Ye Chon, 4121 Hummer Road, Annandale; 703-914-4646.
» Han Sung Oak, 6341 Columbia Pike, Falls Church; 703-642-0808.
» Java Green Cafe, 1020 19th St. NW; 202-775-8899. (Farragut North)
» L Street Vending, 1400 L St. NW; 703-209-5415. (McPherson Square)
» K-Young's Deli, 325 Morse St. NE; 202-548-0060. (New York Ave.-Florida Ave.-Gallaudet University)

Written by Express contributor Suemedha Sood
Photos by Suemedha Sood for Express