Filled to Perfection: Pica Taco

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IN THE MIDST of Adams Morgan, Mt. Pleasant and Columbia Heights, a new taco shop opened in July. But does an area already packed with nachos, fajitas and pupusas really need Pica Taco? The answer is found in the tender chicken torta and the wallet-pleasing prices.

"Pica" is owner Maria Villalta's slang for the Spanish word "picante," which means hot. Pica Taco is tiny, with just a few tables inside and outside. The menu is equally limited in size, although it's still difficult to chose among the tacos ($2.25), served open-face with sliced radishes; burritos ($4.95-$6.50) stuffed with a choice of braised beef, chicken pastor (pig) and beans; or enchiladas ($7.50), sitting next to a side of rice and beans.

For a non-tortilla experience, try Mexico's equivalent of a sandwich, the torta. Imagine all of your favorite burrito fillings — fried pinto beans, ranchero-sauced chicken, sliced avocado and queso fresco — spread in between a white sub roll.

Villalta is particularly proud of her horchata, a refreshing, creamy almond drink made with milk, ground rice, cinnamon and orgeat powder. This cold drink will give way to atoles, Mexican hot drinks, especially those featuring chocolate, when the weather turns chilly. Spicy pozole soup and a weekly mole night will also appear in the coming months.

Pica Taco opens early, and its filling breakfast burrito of scrambled eggs, tomatoes, green peppers, black beans and shredded cheddar cheese will stay warm long after your bus trip downtown to work. Better yet, Villalta is willing to serve breakfast all day, depending on her schedule: "If I'm not busy, I can do it anytime, if I'm busy, it stops at 11."

Although it's still unclear when she's not busy.

» Pica Taco, 1629 Columbia Road NW; 202-518-0076. (Columbia Heights)

Written by Express contributor Stefanie Gans
Photo by Jason Hornick