Seafood That's Not Fishy: Kellari Taverna Offers Simple, Greek Fish

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WHY MESS WITH EXTRA INGREDIENTS — and calories — when you can enjoy flavorful fish that's been minimally seasoned and simply grilled? That's the ethos of Greek restaurant Kellari Taverna, which opened last weekend.

At Kellari (1700 K St. NW; 202-535-5274), diners choose their meal from a display of a dozen or more fish. The selection varies, depending on what's freshest, but Kellari's corporate chef and partner Gregory Zapantis promises there'll be a range of species imported from the Mediterranean (and many that are hard to find in the area, such as lavraki and tsipoura), and items from local fishmongers. Chefs add small amounts of sea salt, oregano, lemon juice and extra-virgin olive oil to the fish, and then it's grilled.

"The health benefits of this type of cooking are tremendous," says Zapantis, who notes that butter is never used at the restaurant. "The quality of the fish is so high, and every type of fish has its own characteristics and flavors that I wouldn't want to cover that."

So, if you're looking for license to chow down on Grecian grilled fish, eat your heart out.

» Recipe File: Mediterranean Grilled Fagri

Photo courtesy Melissa O'Neal