For the Maddening Crowd: Feed a Crowd Sans Stress With Horde-Pleasing Dishes

| Print Post This | Like (0) | Comments (0)

BIG-BIRD DINNERS for your ginormous family. Sunday brunches for a zillion co-workers. New Year's drinks for a mob. During this season of hosting, entertaining on a grand scale might seem more folly than jolly.

But having a crowd over should be about bringing loved ones together, not freaking out about whether you have enough stuffing for everyone, says Eric Ziebold, chef at CityZen (1330 Maryland Ave. SW; 202-787-6006). "When you welcome people for a family-style meal, everyone wants to be in the spirit of eating, not stressing."

Whether you're hosting a holiday feast for Kate Gosselin and kids or a spirited Sunday supper for 45, the recipe for success is the same: Balance the workload so you make something delicious and still see guests. The goal: you sitting down at the table, not slaving over a tray of Beef Wellingtons for 200.

Procrastination may be your modus operandi for gift-buying, but if guests are coming tomorrow, you should've started prepping for dinner three days ago, or, heck, last week. "Do as much ahead of time as possible," says Lisa Schroeder, author of "Mother's Best: Comfort Food That Takes You Home Again" ($28, Taunton Press). "The advantage of cooking ahead? You deal with disasters in advance. You want to celebrate, not be stuck in a kitchen."

Not surprisingly, that's why Thanksgiving and yuletide menus traditionally star dishes that can be assembled in sizable quantities. "For execution, it's advantageous to do a large roast as your main course. If you're cooking something big like a ham or turkey, it can come out of the oven to rest for a while as you get everything else finished," Ziebold explains.

But a bird or beast needn't headline every party. "I'm a big fan of casseroles and things that can be set up or re-warmed with a high time tolerance," Ziebold says. That doesn't mean resurrecting mom's infamous Tuna Noodle Surprise, either. Chef Scott Drewno of the Source (555 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-637-6100) serves spicy noodle dishes for family-style meals at the restaurant. Schroeder whips up a savory onion pudding spiked with bacon or heaps of cheese.

Soups also go a long way. And, yeah, some of the best crowd-stuffers (hello, enchiladas, lasagna or more exotic Med cousins such as Greek pastitio and Turkish moussaka) show that flavor can trump style when you're feeding more than a few.

It's always good to test a recipe at least once before putting it on the marquee at your place, unless you're adept at home-shucked raw oysters or flambéed Crepes Suzette.

Another key to dinner party success: Keeping in mind that a big group, like a big country, has a variety of tastes and opinions. That means having dishes to satisfy both your red state, red meat-loving uncle and your vegan PETA pals who RSVPed "yes."

Vary the type of food prep, both for taste and to give yourself a break at the stove. "I pick different temperature profiles — some items at room temperature, some cold dishes and other foods hot," Drewno says. "You can refrigerate salads and prep room-temperature dishes early, then focus on hot food." Just try to disperse the dishes over the course of the meal so that your guests don't get a culinary cold rush.
Hot food made in advance can be warmed just before serving. Or, choose dishes that go in an electric fondue pot, a chafing dish or a slow-cooker set on low.

And while presenting each guest a plate — maybe from under one of those fancy domes, like a cruise ship waiter — sounds elegant, it's not practical. Instead, think family style and have guests serve themselves and pass plates around the table.

"Sharing and passing sides involves everyone in the meal. It's more intimate when I'm serving to the person next to me and food is being handed around," Ziebold says. He recommends sides that can be prepared in large batches, say sautéed spinach, cold beet salad or an industrial-sized Pyrex bowl of scalloped potatoes.

And while laying in a case of Chateau de Obscure Corner of France isn't a bad idea for a massive dinner, you don't have to abandon the concept of a signature cocktail. Just pick a highball that can be mixed in high quantities. "For big gatherings at the holidays, there's nothing better than punch or large bowls of eggnog or mulled wine," says Derek Brown, founder of Better Drinking catering service (Better-drinking.com) and bartender at the new Passenger/Columbia Room (1021 Seventh St. NW; 202-393-0220). "That's something you can make in a big batch. Then you don't have to fuss for each person."

When he doesn't want to serve from a punch bowl, Brown leaves instructions, hooch and measured ingredients so that guests can help themselves to a personalized sip.

"Communal dining is fun but chaotic," Drewno says. "As long as you watch your fingers grabbing for the good stuff, you'll have a good time."

CROWD CONTROL
Ice cubes melt quickly, diluting punch bowls. Bar pro Derek Brown suggests filling a rubber Bundt pan with water, adding berries and freezing it. Once popped out, he says, the ice ring, "looks cool and won't water down a drink."

Get creative with serving wear. Ask guests to BYOP (plate). "Renting plates is the eco- and budget-friendly way to go," says Cooke. "You can get anything from an intricate design to classic white china plates from party rental companies such as Party Rental LTD DC (Dcrental.com)." Or, hit the thrift store for fancy-yet-frugal glassware, particularly champagne stems. And if you need a fondue pot for 40 and a pal owns one, borrow it instead of investing in that fancy one from Le Creuset.

Don't try to force your space. "If you don't have enough table seating in one area, group folks in different areas at smaller tables," says Maria Cooke, founder of D.C.'s Ritzy Bee Events. "Just be sure to keep guests' comfort in mind. You don't want them to have to eat soup off their laps!" Or, if you lack loads of seating (or apartment square footage), consider hosting an all-finger-food fete.

When dinner's over, send guests on their way with a good taste in their mouths. "Create a hot chocolate to-go station with cups, toppings and cookies for them to enjoy on the cold walk or drive home," Cooke says.

HOW MUCH HOOCH?
If a horde is coming over for supper, how much wine will you need? If you're pouring vino, count on half a bottle per person per two hours of fete time, unless your posse likes to play F. Scott Fitzgerald Goes to the Dinner Party. For beer, think two to three bottles per guest.

STRIKE THE POSIES
Don't deck the dinner table with bouquets that'll block views of other guests or encroach on plates and glassware. (Blooms shouldn't go too near candles, either, fire-starter.) Consider a big arrangement in a front entrance or on a buffet," says party pro Maria Cooke.

TIPS
People will gather where the food is. "Have nibbles, finger food, nuts and cocktails at the ready," says cookbook author Lisa Schroeder. "I welcome guests with a bar with ice, mixers and hors d'oeuvres."

Dinner parties aren't just about food. "Don't forget ambiance," says D.C. party planner Maria Cooke. "Arrange seating that'll stimulate conversation. Keep a big fire crackling, dim the lighting and create cozy spots for people to mingle."

Written by Express contributor Erin Hartigan
Illustrations by Chad Crowe for Express